3 Great T-Shirt Textiles: Ring-Spun Cotton, and CVC vs. Tri-Blend Fabrics

What’s in a T-Shirt?

Most of us are familiar with 100% cotton tees, because we all grew up with them. What most of us do not know, however, is just how many different types of fabrics, knits, and weaves are used to create modern t-shirts. For example, materials like polyester, rayon, and spandex are keystones in modern apparel.

The prominence of these materials in modern textiles results from consumer demand for softer, stronger fabrics that are more colorfast and hold their size better. In the case of certain knits or spandex, the appeal of having a more stretchy or fitted fabric is a major purchasing factor for many people.

Cotton itself can be procured in a number of different ways that make it more appealing, too. Your average, 100% cotton t-shirt is manufactured using what is called “open end carded” cotton, which is more inexpensive than other methods and provides good value. However, with an average of only 18 singles per inch (18 twists per inch of yarn), open end carded fabric typically has lots of loose ends protruding and has a scratchy, boxy feel on the skin.

The solution to this for a sophisticated buyer is to seek out garments with a higher “singles” count, then consider the options for thread blends and weight.

1. Ring-spun Cotton

District DT6501 – “Very Important Tee”

This is the gold standard for a modern, soft cotton tee. Combining good value with excellent feel and print-ability, your typical ring-spun cotton tee will have 30 singles, or 30 twists per inch of yarn. Unlike open-end carded cotton, ring-spun cotton is woven by constantly twisting and thinning the strands of cotton, leading to a very fine (and strong) “rope” that is very dense with a soft hand.


In my experience, most end users feel much better in a ring-spun cotton tee than one made with open-end carded cotton. They fit better, feel softer, and tend to be more durable even when the fabric weight is lighter. For example, a 4.1 oz. ring-spun cotton tee will often be more durable than a regular, 6.1 oz. open end carded tee.

2. CVC (a.k.a. “Chief Value Cotton”)

Next Level 6210 – Premium CVC Crew

CVC fabrics are a blend of polyester with cotton, with cotton in a higher proportion than the polyester in most cases. Since polyester is more colorfast and less prone to shrinkage, this blend can extend the life and durability of a garment. Shirts made with CVC fabric come in two basic formats: interwoven and polyester exterior.

Interwoven CVC fabrics have the cotton and polyester fibers woven together from the outset, whereas polyester exterior styles feature the cotton on the inside of the garment, with the polyester on the outside. For some, this produces a softer and more comfortable feel on the inside where the fabric meets the skin, while retaining the benefits of blending both fabrics together.


Due to its strength and colorfastness, CVC is commonly used for medical uniforms and other professional attire in all industries. With its considerable durability (compared to 100% cotton), it can withstand more frequent washing, scrubbing of stains, and active wear applications.

3. Tri-Blends

Bella 8435 – Triblend Deep V-Neck

Tri-blends are similar to CVC shirts since they typically have both cotton and polyester, but with the addition of Rayon, which many claim feels similar to silk. Also, tri-blends tend to be weighted more on the polyester side (for example, Next Level’s 6010 is 50% polyester / 25% cotton / 25% rayon).

Rayon is a very soft, smooth fiber that consists of semi-synthesized 100% cellulose produced from wood pulp, which is extracted via chemical processes. It is a very comfortable fiber against the skin and tends to be highly absorbent, yet it does not insulate body heat. It is also very breathable, making it a popular choice for warm weather, since it can capture moisture from the body and release it more efficiently than cotton.

Shirts made with a percentage of Rayon also tend to display their colors very vibrantly. This results from the high absorption factor of the material, which takes up much of the color used during the dying process.

Conclusion

All three of these material compositions are popular and widely used in the apparel industry, especially retail. Cotton is a surefire choice for most folks, but do not underestimate the power of CVC or Tri-Blends. The addition of polyester gives them a textured, “heathered” look (very popular currently), and the extra colorfastness and reduced shrinkage ensure your shirt will last for many years.